This was the plan:
Fly into Kiruna, pick up a car and go to Svolvær via Abisko. Spend two whole days on the islands and go back via the same route.
We wanted to kill two birds with one stone – see Lofoten and, even if just for a short while, go to Abisko, which we’d heard lots of interesting stuff about.
In Abisko national park, a hundred kilometres north of the arctic circle, the Kungsleden (King’s trail) begins, which takes you through deserted, wild and beautiful areas of Swedish Lapland.
The shorter version of the hike from Abisko to Nikkaluokta is about 105 km long and takes a week, with 12 to 19 km covered each day and nights spent in STF (Swedish Tourist Association) cabins. It is considered far more beautiful because it takes you through the Tjaektja pass (1140m).
There is also the longer version, which takes 8-10 days and goes to Saltoluokta Fjaellstation.
It’s interesting that the winter ski routes along this path are just as popular as the summer ones, especially since the tourist infrastructure has become so developed here over the last century. You can reserve skis for yourself beforehand (so-called backcountry skis, which are wider than cross-country skis and have a metal edge), get a transfer or ski to the end point of the route, and reserve STF huts on the way, some of which have a kitchen, a small shop or even a sauna. Or you can simply ride with sled-dogs or on a snowmobile.
The best season for winter fun is the end of March and April, when the days become longer and the probability of good weather becomes notably higher than in the winter months.
While we were in Abisko there was a snowstorm, which caused us problems as it meant that they might have had to close the pass on the border with Norway. Because of this we hurried to cover that leg of the journey, having to leave getting acquainted with Swedish Lapland for next time.
Despite the storm, the trip from Kiruna through Abisko to Svolvær took us about 6 hours.
In Narvik region
In Svolvær we stayed in quite a popular place called Svinoya Rorbuer, a complex of former fishing cabins remodelled into cottages for tourists.
The cabins turned out to be very cosy, well equipped for cooking, and there was even underfloor heating in the bathroom. The most beautiful view of the fjord is from cabin 23, but it’s also good from cabins 16 and 15.
The next day we decided to go to Reine, which in all the guidebooks is called the most beautiful village in Norway.
The gloomy wintry nature on the islands left a strong impression.
The severe monumentality of the landscapes reminded me of Spitzbergen, where we were lucky enough to visit two years ago.
See: Cruise to Spitzberg: bears and whales again, august 2013.
Despite the cloudiness, the air temperature was comfortable enough, around 3 degrees when there wasn’t any wind, so it really was a pleasure walking near the beach around Ramberg.
The next morning looked promising.
And actually, on a fine day the area takes on a completely different character.
We met a photo tour group by a small beach.
We drove up to Henningvaer and had a lovely walk around the fishing village.
View from the bridge.
Table for gutting fish with an interesting view.
Then we went along route 815.
From the end of January cod season begins in Lofoten, when they catch enormous amounts of fish, which you can definitely buy from the fish processing factories. But because it was the weekend when we were planning on buying fish the factories were closed, and the only fresh fish in the shops was salmon bred in sea-cages. Having phoned up a few restaurants in Svolvær, we we able to only go to one where we could try cod – Bacalao. At lunchtime it turned out that the cod, ‘torrfisk’, was dried then tenderised. All the same, the fish ended up being very tasty.
View from the window of the restaurant.
However, the view from the cabin, rorbuer, wasn’t any worse.
The next day we had our crossing via Abisko to Kiruna in store.
Having returned to Kiruna we visited the city church, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful churches in Sweden.
Then we drove around the outskirts for a little bit. The weak northern sun illuminated Lake Sautus.
Near Kiruna is the famous Ice Hotel. The interiors of its ice-rooms change every year, and they invite ice sculptors from all over the world to come and design them. It’s interesting enough walking about in the frozen part of the hotel, but it’s difficult to imagine how it must be to spend the night there, even in spite of the special warm overalls.
Cocktail menu in the bar.
From Kiruna we flew to Stockholm and to finish off here’s a few photos of the wintry city.
Cold.
But sunny.
The unique and famous Vasa boat museum.
And then after a wonderful day in Stockholm we flew back to Moscow, but promised to return.
