This was our second trip to Alaska.
The first time was in July 2012, and the amazing Alaskan nature made a lasting impression on us. We decided to once again return to this faraway land to experience the forests and tundra during the vibrant golden autumn season.
The period from the 25th of August until the 4th of September was chosen for this trip. It’s important to note that the golden autumn doesn’t occur all at once across Alaska, but can last for several weeks depending on climatic zones and elevation. For example, in early September in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the leaves were only just beginning to turn gold. On the scenic Denali Highway the golden autumn was in full swing, while in the Denali National Park’s tundra this riot of color had already passed, and the forests around Anchorage remained mostly green.
Our route was as follows: Anchorage (1 night) – Hatcher Pass – Palmer (1 night) – Glenn Highway – Richardson Highway – Worthington Glacier – Valdez (1 night) – Cruise to Columbia Glacier – Chitina (1 night) – Flight from Chitina Airport to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park – Kennecott – Hike to Root Glacier (2 nights) – Minibus back to Chitina – Glennallen (1 night) – Denali Highway – Healy (1 night) – Full day in Denali National Park – Healy (1 night) – Return to Anchorage (1 night).
Anchorage and the Beauty of Hatcher Pass
North of Anchorage, not far from Palmer, lies the spectacular Hatcher Pass—one of the best places to take photos in Alaska. At the top of the road, near Summit Lake Recreation Area, you can park and enjoy the well-marked trails. We arrived close to dusk and under cloudy skies, so we limited ourselves to a short walk around the lake.
Traveling Along Glenn & Richardson Highways to Worthington Glacier and Valdez
The next day, we headed toward Valdez along the Glenn and Richardson Highways. The road winds through mountain landscapes, glaciers, alpine lakes, and forest tundra, making it an incredibly scenic drive.
Before reaching Valdez, we took a turn-off to Worthington Glacier. This glacier is just a short 15-20 minute walk from the parking area, allowing you to literally touch ancient ice. It’s a remarkable spot, and we highly recommend a visit.
Exploring Valdez: A Fishing Settlement and Important Oil Port
Valdez is a small fishing town and a significant oil port located at the end of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System. It sits on the coast of the Prince William Sound, where the landscape is shaped by mountains and sea.
Cruising to the Columbia Glacier
From Valdez, several companies offer one-day cruises into the fjords and glaciers, where enormous ice flows descend into the gulf. The most popular are Stephenscruises and Lulubelle. We chose Lulubelle for its promise of getting closer to the Columbia Glacier and the more intimate, family-like atmosphere aboard its smaller boat.
On the way, we encountered bald eagles, a few baby killer whales, seals, and a large group of amusing sea otters. The wildlife sightings added a layer of wonder to the journey.
The boat spent about two hours near the glacier, drifting calmly along the ice edge. The mood was very much “We wish you were here.”
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and the Historic Kennecott
Our next destination was Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the largest national park in the United States but also one of the hardest to reach. Two gravel roads lead into the park: Nabesna Road from the north and McCarthy Road from the south. McCarthy Road was once considered the worst in Alaska, but it has improved. You can get to McCarthy by air from Chitina, by shuttle bus, or by private vehicle.
We decided to fly in with Wrangell Mountain Air and take the shuttle back. We left our car at the tiny airfield in Chitina and made our way to McCarthy by plane.
Kennecott, located 4km from McCarthy, was where we had a hotel reserved for two nights. This was the last stop accessible by car; beyond lies the park’s remote wilderness.
Kennecott was once a booming mining town in the 1900s, noted for its extremely rich copper deposits. The town was modern for its time, featuring a power station, dormitories, a school for foreign workers, a hospital, and even tennis courts, yet no alcohol or brothels were allowed. After producing copper worth hundreds of millions of dollars, the mine closed in 1938 due to falling copper prices.
Over time, tourists began to visit this abandoned place, fascinated by the fact that it retained the atmosphere of a town abruptly deserted. Restoration efforts have begun, but many buildings remain in disrepair.
Hiking to Root Glacier and Exploring Ice Caves
One of the popular hikes from Kennecott is to the Root Glacier. This glacier consists of differently colored ice layers—white, greenish, gray, and brown—each hue influenced by the massif it descends from. The guide explained that the glacier is retreating, leaving more rock and debris on the surface every year.
On a previous trip to Alaska, we visited the cave under Mendenhall Glacier and were enchanted by its luminous blue interior. In Kennecott, we arranged an ice cave exploration tour with St Elias Alpine Guides. After some correspondence, they agreed to skip the usual fitness testing and take us directly to the caves.
The entrance to the ice cave was modest but led us into another world.
As we explored different sections of the glacier, the guide would find small entrances leading into mesmerizing ice caverns. These were smaller than at Mendenhall, but more varied. Some required crawling a few meters under ice, dragging our backpacks along. We recommend bringing a backpack cover and work gloves for comfort.
Time permitting, multi-day hikes into the depths of the park or flying to remote plateaus for circular hikes are great options. The Skolai Pass area is said to be particularly scenic.
Bears do inhabit the park. Although we didn’t meet any face-to-face, there are signs of their presence. Food storage boxes are provided, and if you’re camping, you must store your food far from the tent—preferably 100 meters away.
Experiencing the Denali Highway
After Wrangell-St. Elias, we headed to the Denali Highway. We first traveled it on our 2012 trip and remembered its scenic beauty, diverse landscapes, and near-total lack of traffic. This time, it was “busy” by Alaskan standards—an RV every 5-10 minutes, often with quad-bikes in tow.
It was hunting season. We saw a father and son tracking deer, and at times we passed scenes of successful hunts with people butchering carcasses by the road. Hunters on quad-bikes navigated the tundra, leaving deep tracks. Despite this, Denali Highway remains incredibly beautiful. Officially 143 miles, it could be driven in about 4 hours, but it took us 7 due to frequent photo stops.
The highest point on the road is McLaren Summit, where there’s a campsite and, it seems, a place to refuel. Still, it’s best to fill up in Paxton before you set out.
In the tundra, you can find incredibly tasty blueberries. They grow right by the roadside, a sweet treat for travelers.
Denali National Park: Wildlife and Alpine Trails
We spent the next day in Denali National Park. Private vehicles are not allowed deep into the park, but a shuttle bus system runs from the Visitors’ Center every 15-30 minutes. It’s best to reserve tickets in advance online during peak season and arrive early to get good seats behind the driver for optimal wildlife viewing.
The bus ride to Wonder Lake takes about 5 hours one way. We opted for Eielson Visitor Center (3.5 hours one way) and a short hike on the Eielson Alpine Trail. The drive is thrilling—steep hairpin turns and narrow roads hugging cliffs. Drivers undergo extensive safety training every year.
We stopped whenever wildlife appeared. Bears sometimes wandered onto the road. We saw dozens, though many were far away.
Two bears even emerged directly in front of the bus. Others were busy feasting in blueberry bushes. Seeing wildlife here is almost guaranteed.
Polychrome Ridge was another scenic highlight—its multi-colored mountainscapes are breathtaking.
And of course, there’s Denali (formerly Mt. McKinley), the highest peak in North America, standing majestically above it all.
The Eielson Alpine Trail, although short, is a steep climb that rewards you with fantastic valley views and a chance to stretch your legs after hours on the bus.
After Denali, our journey in Alaska came to a close. We returned to Anchorage, then flew to Las Vegas to begin another adventure—a few days of hiking in Zion National Park. But that’s another story.
